Quaint and quirky, Karen Northcote’s town-centre pub with cosy rooms above was built in 1592 as a warehouse to store contraband seized from smugglers. It has old beams, wooden floors and eclectic decoration. Breakfast has extensive choice, with bread from a local artisan baker. Ronny Balle’s dinners, based on British seasonal ingredients, have ‘lots of Rye Bay fish’. Bar, restaurant upstairs; terrace. Background music. Children and dogs welcomed. 10 bedrooms. B&B £45–£50 per person. Dinner £29